Biodynamic Wine: A first look

I wish I could go back in time to ask winemakers of past, "How do you think wine making will be affected by future technology?" They surely wouldn't know about our advances in computers.They might not mention the use of modern wine making trends like steel barrels, micro oxygenation, ultra-sound, computer chips in vineyards or extreme temperature control to make cheap wines palatable. However if I were to explained the new Biodynamic Wine trends sweeping the globe, they would think we have regressed back to medieval agricultural traditions!

For those not familiar with biodynamic agriculture, let me give it to you straight from the Wikipedia article: "Biodynamic agriculture, a method of organic farming that has its basis in a spiritual world-view , first propounded by Rudolf Steiner treats farms as unified and individual organisms emphasizing balancing the holistic development and interrelationship of the soil, plants, animals as a closed, self-nourishing system."

What this means is the vineyard is considered in it's entirety as a living thing and seen as an organism in it's own right, but one that is in consistent with lunar and cosmic patterns and rhythms and not merely a substrate for plant growth... Wheew...

Wine makers are taking weird, unconventional methods of viticulture and wine making and following a strict biodynamic calendar of harvesting, planting and etc. because they believe it will help their vines and ultimately their finished wines. These methods are broken up into several preparations that all seem a bit odd and skeptical. Such examples include Preparation 500 where cow manure is buried into the soil for a period of time, dug back up and spread over the fields. Other examples include fermenting yarrow flowers in a deer's bladder or oak bark in a skull of a domestic animal and applying them to compost or spraying the vines with horsetail tea, according to the biodynamic calendar. Weird stuff you thought you'd see on Taboo, huh?

But what definitely has the world in shock and awe is that no matter how medieval, superstitious or unreasonable these methods seem, the winemakers (all notable and renown in the wine making world) are producing outstanding wine with biodynamie. These producers include Domaine de la Romanee Conti, Zind Humbrecht, Huet, Beaux Freres , and Benziger among numerous others. (For a list of more producers check out http://www.wineanorak.com/biodynamic3.htm) I think what really has people going is because there is almost no way to prove this advantage scientifically... They just seem to be better. Here's an excerpt from wineanorak.com that sums up the whole thing:

Despite these problems, proper studies have been carried out, and generally they seem to suggest that biodynamics really does work. In 1993, Reganold and colleagues compared the performance of biodynamic and conventional farms in New Zealand, a report published in leading scientific journal Science. They found that the biodynamic farms had significantly higher soil quality, with more organic matter content and microbial activity. In 1995 Reganold published a review of the different studies that have examined biodynamics and have met basic standards for scientific credibility. The conclusion was that biodynamic systems had better soil quality, lower crop yields and equal or greater net returns per hectare than their conventional counterparts. But what could the mechanism be? A tantalizing clue is offered by some experiments carried out by a graduate student of Reganold’s, Lynne Carpenter-Boggs, on the effects of biodynamic preparations on compost development. In an experimental setting, biodynamically treated composts showed higher temperatures, faster maturation and more nitrate than composts that had received a placebo inoculation. Reganold is clearly impressed: ‘Of all the farm systems that I’ve seen, biodynamics is probably the most holistic.’

As I conclude I will state that biodynamie on vineyards does work... They seem to produce greater environments, grow superior grapes and make tastier wine. The hard thing to conclude is why does this all work? Ancient civilizations have planted, harvested and celebrated with the phases of the moon and the cosmos for centuries. Perhaps there is something there? Perhaps it is some sort of spiritual, holistic reason for this all to make sense. Or perhaps it's just with biodynamic procedures, wine makers are paying close attention. They are giving their land, their resources and their environment the attention it deserves; the close attention and observation that is needed to produce superior wine. That's something this world could never have too many of; devoted, passionate and dedicated wine makers who "listen" to their vineyards. For further research on Biodynamic wine I urge you to google up on the subject and be sure to check out http://www.wineanorak.com/biodynamic1.htm for a great resource on the subject.

Cheers to you,
-Tatum
Read More!

DeRanter's first Tasting Note... a beer?!

I posted this on the WLTV forums and I thought I'd share it on DeRanter as well. Why not, right?

This will be my official first beer tasting note... well actually, on this site, this will be the first tasting note of anything. Who knew that my wine blog's first tasting note would be of a delicious beer? Go figure...

A note on tasting notes; I usually try not to publish tasting notes myself. I take the side that the great Tom Wark, from Fermentation Wine Blog, takes; I leave the tasting to the ones that are good with it. Yes, I taste wine, but there are people that can be much more expressive, detailed and intricate than me. I'm just starting out... But I realized, I might try to post a few up here anyway. If anything, it will help my writing skills, and maybe I'd get a critique or two from my readers. (Wink, wink...)

I decided to buy a six pack of Brooklyn Brewery's Black Chocolate Stout because I needed a lift. A week of homework, test, group project meetings and just the overall end-of-semester woes. I wanted something to relax me a bit. It was good that I didn't have class today because coming in at 10% alcohol, this is not a school-night drink... well, maybe if you have just one...

Inky black color with a nice head of foam. It smells great too; roasted coffee beans and a hint of dark chocolate, but that's not it...

Shwooosh! The cold liquid flows out to cover your mouth with slight bitterness and opens up to reveal a world of roasted almonds (or some kind of nutty component), coffee, and rich, but subtle, dark chocolate. This is quite a filling, heavier stout, and I can see why it's their winter seasonal.

The finish was star of the show; the hints of charcoal cling to your tonsils until the next sip, and flavors of bitter chocolate, nuts and espresso chill on your taste buds until the last drop. Very delicious beer and one that can truly say, "Eat your heart out, Guinness..."

A few people have told me that this is not comparable to Guinness, but after review and another sip I feel it is... I might even say that "Guinness" would be a tasting component of this beer. I was very happy, sleepy and relaxed by the end of the night and, after two bottles, was able to drift off to sleep.

So what do you think? Maybe you might want to go out and try some of this stuff, it's great!

Cheers to you,
-Tatum
Read More!

It's our wine!... Time, I meant time...

My generation is a thirsty one, according to multiple sources like the LA Times, NY Times, Winecast and NY Sun. A number of articles have been written, numerous surveys have been tallied and hours of research confirm that the Millennials are taking center stage in the wine world. "They" are saying that our generation is drinking, appreciating and buying more wine at a much younger age than previous generations. So, what's all the hype? Statistics don't have anything to do with wine business, culture and innovation, right? Wrong. We are the future, and with our buying power, our passion and our numbers, but most importantly with our wires, we can bring change to an industry that has thrived for centuries... but will we?

For readers who are not familiar with what I mean by "Millennial," let me give a quick run-down: "The Millennials Generation" is considered the generation after "Generation X," and definitely after the "Baby Boomers" of post-WWII, whom were born between the 80's and the turn of the century. For the past decade-or-so this generation, my generation, has been turning 21. Among things like not knowing a life without computers and relying on the Internet to do everything, we are the biggest generation to be appreciating wine, and at a much younger age than our parents and grandparents. And at an estimated 100-million strong, we're a big generation! (Compared to 44-million baby boomers)

I've noticed at my WLTV gatherings that older generations seemed to have discovered wine at a much later age than me. Most people I meet in the wine scene are in their 30's and 40's, not having really appreciated wine until they were 25 or older. I was infatuated with wine knowledge, culture and practices when I turned 20. The only thing I wanted to do when I turned 21 was to buy that official bottle of wine, and sure enough I did, a 2001 Haut-Brion. I didn't care about the bars or the vodka, I just wanted the wine; people like me are sprouting up all across the world. They discover wine for what it really is, not just it's inebriating purposes...

It has been noted that our generation are not as likely to stick to the "big name" wines. For us, tasting wine is not as much of a class or status issue as before. Gary Vaynerchuk has been shouting to the world what the Millennials believed all along; wine shouldn't be a way to judge your wealth or power. It should not hold pretension and it should be enjoyable and pleasing. We are less likely to choose a wine because of the name of the chateau on the bottle, instead we choose it by varietal or region. We want to explore the world with wine, instead of sticking with the few "good ones." Playing it safe isn't our style; we take more risk, and a bad bottle of wine doesn't disappoint us as much. And don't forget that for most wine choices, we decide based on instant gratification, as with everything else in our modern lives, so we rather pick the $15 mystery malbec then buy Brunello for $80 and hide it for ten years. Does it mean I wouldn't buy a brunello to age? Nope, but sometimes I just want to taste wine now.

But what is the reason? Has wine become so popular that it's captivating drinkers at an earlier age? Not necessarily. It's the wires; the wires that stretch from country to country, wine maker to consumer and expert to novice. Now with the power of the Internet, wine knowledge is at our fingertips. We need only go to a search engine and type some keyword like "Cote du Nuits" and find pages of wisdom on these regions. This was not as available before, as hobbyist had to either buy a book or go to the library to read up on this. Now, we can gain knowledge without leaving the keyboard.

Social networks have allowed winos to find each other. Producers can send newsletters and design websites to inform consumers of futures, a novice can link up with a group of seasoned drinkers and learn the nuances of tastings, and winos everywhere can produce blogs, exchange tasting notes, reviews, plan and promote events, among other things. The way that the Internet has changed the wine world is tremendous, and the way our generation will impact it is even more so. In the words of Gary, this generation is "Changing the wine world, whether they like it or not." Because of our broadened cultural understanding, openness to change for the better, and our lack of support for traditions we don't deem necessary, we have already changed things tremendously. We have taken wine out of the glass and into plastic cartons. We have stopped using the corks and using screw caps. Every facet of wine is going to and will change with our technology and intuitiveness.

But will we change it for the worse? Not really. As our world grows faster and smaller, some might fear that the traditions and history of wine will be lost. I'm sure that will not happen. I'm sure that our great generation will innovate, inspire and dream and make wine their own. Wines will stretch the world over many times with the strength of the Internet and our social-technical intuition. New countries will become "wine countries" and drinkers will benefit from an open-minded, unpretentious and passionate society.

I feel that my generation will lead the way to writing one of the most important chapters in wine history, while ensuring that the romance, wisdom and love of wine is shared to future generations. May wine live forever.

Cheers to you,
-Tatum
Read More!

Wines that will change a life...

I never really can justify a bottle of wine that cost more than $80 because, quite frankly, I can’t appreciate it yet. My palate, not to mention my wallet, does not have the “chops” it takes to distinguish these wines from my usual $15-$40 “school night” drinkers. But, while catching up on my WLTV episodes, Gary mentioned a wine that I thought maybe someday I could justify buying...

Gordon L. Holmes, a Wall Street publisher turned wine maker, and Lookout Ridge has gathered an amazing team of wine makers who are producing top-notch wines for a cause worth admiration: wheelchairs. That’s right, for every bottle of wine you buy from them, they donate the profits to Wine for Wheels, an organization that is dedicated to provide wheelchairs to people who can’t afford them.

Their dream-team cast of wine makers includes Andy Erickson, the wine maker at Screaming Eagle, Greg La Folette, from Tandem, Cathy Corison, Richard Arrowood, Aaron Pott, and so many more prestigious names.

The winery also delivers a personalized certificate with a photograph of the person your donation went to with the bottles of wine that you buy. Holmes realized the importance of having a wheelchair his wife developed a rare form of debilitating multiple sclerosis.

Here’s a bit from an article at Bloomberg.com that was written in Febuary that sums up the deal:
By 2000, Holmes was planting vineyards and hired top winemaker Greg La Follette to help him make wine from purchased grapes. Four years later he met California real-estate developer and philanthropist Ken Behring, who started the Wheelchair Foundation. That chance encounter and his wife's situation inspired his Wine for Wheels effort.

``The first time we distributed wheelchairs, in Mexico, I saw how one could instantly change someone's life,'' he says. ``I picked up a little boy whose dad was wheeling him in a wheelbarrow and sat him in a wheelchair. The look on his face now that he could get around by himself -- wow.''

Holmes, a self-confessed Type A personality, manages his own investment portfolio and also publishes three online newsletters on precious metals and energy.

``My uranium stocks have gone up 1,000 percent since 2001,'' he says. He leverages his financial connections to promote Wine for Wheels. Next week, when he attends a mining conference in Toronto, he'll take wine. Not to make money, he says, but to get on the 25,000 attendees' charity lists.

The winemakers he approached for his project were quick to sign on.
``Within 20 minutes of talking to Gordon, I was in,'' Erickson tells me later. ``I've traveled in South America and Asia and seen people with no legs living in boxes, trying to get around on skateboards. My wife and I were looking for some way to give something back.''

That is the beauty of wine- it’s not hardcore capitalism, it’s not all about the finance and profits, numbers and figures. Wine is about passion, love and companionship. It’s good to see such a talented group of people not only give to their love of wine, but give back to the community. To these philanthropists, they aren’t just trying to make money; they are trying to give to people who deserve more. They are trying to give back dignity, independence and faith. To a winemaker, there could be no greater reward.

I know the packages are pricey, but take a look anyway: http://www.lookoutridge.com/lookoutridge/page/wine-for-wheels.jsp

Cheers to you,
-Tatum

Read More!

Not "broadbanding" wine anytime soon...

Barack Obama’s website stated that he “believes America should lead the world in broadband penetration and internet access.” John McCain also believes that everyone, no matter rich or poor, should have internet access. I, and I'm sure you do to, rely on the internet tremendously to get every-day activities done. I have convinced myself that without a computer, my life could not function. Besides that point, we are seeing the information revolution, where everything will be instant, better and faster. All this is due to the incredible medium which is the internet.

Let me state something painfully obvious; the internet has become common place for the world. Without second thought, we turn to it to optimize, automate and enhance our lives, everything from communication to entertainment. So, it comes to no surprise that the marketplace has shifted from the traditional brick-and-mortar mom-and-pop shops to the web.

But as we slowly see wine consumers, culture and attention go “Web 2.0,” I’m not convinced that the wine world will see its shift to the virtual tasting room too soon…
Being a Vayniac, I have seen how Gary has turned his father’s local liquor store into Wine Library, a nationally known brand. He owes, and gives, a lot of his credit to Web 2.0. Numerous other companies have started up on the web to sell wine as well: Winebid.com, Wine Woot, Winestillsoldout.com, the list continues. Things will heat up when multi-million-dollar internet conglomerate, Amazon.com, begins their process to sell wine through their site. These are all good things; we consumers have power to choose, to dictate and to explore far more varieties of sources than ever. From California to France, buyers can find great values and immensely amazing selections with tremendous availability. We can get tasting notes in an instant, share information on blogs and forums and make less pressured, more educated buying decisions.

If you’ve notice, these are all benefits. I have not listed many problems or criticism to wine going online, because quite frankly, I prefer it. I believe that it is the future, but this future certainly is not within our near future. One simple reason I believe this is because we are human beings. Okay, yes, another painfully obvious statement, but as human beings we need company and experience. We observe patterns, solve problems and learn from our experience, which accumulates into knowledge that becomes wisdom. You drink a lot of wine, you buy a lot of bottles and you will accumulate Wine wisdom. We need company; this is why online social networking has become such a phenomenon, because we can keep and search for friends in more ways than ever before. We want to spend time with each other, our instincts need it. This is why we host wine parties, tasting, and conventions. This is why wine will never be exclusively “broad-banded,” if you will, because it requires that human element to exist.

Because of this need for human interaction, we will not shift our buying practices to the internet completely. Without local wine stores, there would be no wine sales people. Wine people are as much of a part of our “wine collection” as the bottles themselves. How many of us have a special connection with at least one person who deals with trying to get you to buy wine? They tell us the latest trends, they pull out the super-primo stuff when you stop in and they enjoy selling wine to you; but that’s not something you can do without knowing a person’s tastes, style and character. Automated processes have very limited solutions to this because it can’t “get to know” anything, it can only dictate. A good wine person does not dictate what a “good buy is,” they recommend it and tailor it to the consumer. A wine recommendation is based on personal connection, not algorithms.
I will always go out to the LWS to browse the aisles, look through the bargain bin and pick up that bottle. I want to go chat about wine news and knowledge, I want to feel the bottle, have those special samples. Broadbanding wines will lose that human element.

And who is to say that because something is cheaper and more abundant that we will abandon local wine stores? Because I can stream almost any movie for free on my computer doesn’t mean I don’t enjoy a date out to the theaters, or just because I can order food online from almost anywhere does not mean I won’t go enjoy some company at a nice restaurant. In this way, no matter how fast, efficient and connected we become via the internet, the human element will also rule our instincts to be with each other share the company and celebrate friendship.

Cheers to you,
-Tatum Read More!

Brunello sticks to their roots...

As many winos may have heard in the news recently, an upcoming vote on the fate of Brunello di Montalcino drew to an end today, and I have the results, thanks to a subscription to vinowire... (You should get it, it's free!)If some readers don't know what I'm saying then let me give it to you in a nutshell:Brunello di Montalcino, a prestigous wine region in Italy, must be made of 100% sangiovese grapes. Around eight months ago, fake "Brunello" blends (read: not 100% sangiovese) were being sold as BdM- This was bad for Italy and bad for brunello. Some wine makers said they wanted to change strict, Italian DOC and DOCG wine laws to allow blends; this will help tailor the taste of BdM to foreign (read: majority American public) consumers who are not used to a power palate-boxer such as brunello.

So, here are the voting results:

Proposition 1- Are you in favor of changing the ampelographic (the study of identification and classification of grapevines) basis for Brunello di Montalcino? 662 voted NO, 30 voted YES

Proposition 2- Are you in favor of changing the ampelographic basis for Rosso di Montalcino? 540 voted NO, 162 voted YES

Proposition 3- Are you in favor of changing any other appellation rules? (yields, allowing the use of concentrated rectifiede must) 474 voted NO, 278 voted YES

Proposition 4- Are you in favor of grouping all appellations into a single "Montalcino" appellation? (Except for Sant' Antimo.) 684 voted NO, 6 voted YES

Proposition 5- Are you in favor of grouping all other appellations into a single "Montalcino" appellation? (Except for Brunello di Montalcino.) 572 voted NO, 118 voted YES

So as we may see in these results, it seems that wine makers stay proud and true to their traditions. Even though changing some of these DOC/DOCG laws may help business and harvest, the prestige of Bdm and all Montalcino's wine regions are more important than financial gain.

So next time some aristocratic, wannabe flaunts some expensive bottle at you, or you take a punch to the tongue from a truly bold and powerful brunello, thank the Italian wine makers; for keeping their class, sticking by their convictions and protecting traditions.

Cheers!
-Tatum
Read More!